The feeling of being back to Kenya

There has been two weeks since I arrived in Chwele, Kenya. This is the third time I'm visiting the country and the second I come to this village. The current experience is going to different from the previous ones though, then this time I came to live here.

Elisa and Efrahim in Cherangani. FOTO: PRIVATE.

My stay in Chwele is the beginning of very long journey I decided to tackle. Actually it's going to be my home in Africa for quite some time before I move on, what gives the traveling concept a totally different perspective. Here I'll be living with the Luhyas, the second largest tribe in Kenya. In the Western region, more exactly in the surroundings of the city Bungoma, the ethnic group Bukusu, one of the 18 sub-tribes of the Luhyas, are predominant and I'm living among them.

On the way to work in Chwele. FOTO: PRIVATE.

How does it feel to be back in Kenya? What is it like to live here?
So far, I've met the old friends and hosts I got to know during my previous visits to the country. I was glad to see that they were as happy as I was to meet them again. Even the kids still remembered of me and had my name fresh in their minds.

Burial ceremony in Cherangani. FOTO: PRIVATE.

Lisa preparing the firewood to cook Gideri. FOTO: PRIVATE.

Kenyan people are very welcoming and gentle in their manners, they stop to have casual talks on the walkway, they will invite you to come to their places and eat with them and every single time you meet a handshake is a "must". I remember once I just missed to shake hands with someone and I got to hear the following: "My friend, we Kenyans like to feel each other's blood temperature, each other's body temperature. We want to know how warm you are. That's why shake hands is so important!" He made himself pretty much understandable with that analogy and the essence behind his explanation was just impressive.

One of the markets of Bungoma. FOTO: PRIVATE.

And what about the local food?
Not being yet able to make reference to the tribe specific specialties, I generally love the food here and keep trying what is put in from of me. Everything very fresh, cheap and mainly grown in the backyard. Banana, groundnut, maize, potatoes, grains and beans, and different kinds of green leaves are the base of the local kitchen. Concerning meat the Bukusu people eat some beef and chicken, but occasionally, since meat is generally expensive for the population. I particularly like the dark, "ugali wa wimbi", a kind of porridge prepared with millet (Kiswahili wimbi) and cassava. That one with chicken stew is just delicious!

Chapati bread with dark ugali (made from millet and cassava) in chicken stew. FOTO: PRIVATE.

Another aspect of being a foreigner in Kenya is that I have to get used to the word "Mzungu". Mzungu is the Swahili word for "white man" or just "foreigner." Everywhere I walk or cycle past everyone, specially the children, run after me and shout "Mzungu! Mzungu!". Since I look like an European (I'm originally Brazilian) I'm still getting used to be excessively noticed. Another consequence of being a Mzungu is that I get the "Mzungu prizes" when I go to the market. Most of the believe that all Wazungu (plural of Mzungu) are wealthy and for this reason increase the prizes of most products as soon as one appears willing to buy something. Nevertheless, in the souvenir markets one must bargain, since the a Mzungu has good chances to get a good offer in such places.

One of the market streets in Bungoma. FOTO: PRIVATE.

In my opinion, the most important aspect of being a Mzungu where I live is that I get to know people very easily since everyone is very much willing to know me. So, people are really friendly, they want to talk to you, to know where you come from, to tell about their culture and to be helpful somehow. So, it won't take any longer and I'll become one of the locals, as well as, and they will get used to my presence. The fact that I already got my Bukusu name, Simiyu, wich means born in the drought period, is a good sign of it.

Travellers in a matatu. FOTO: PRIVATE.

Things like traveling in "matatus", the electricity blackouts and the scarcity of water are further experiences one will frequently goes through when living on the countryside in Kenya. A matatu is the most used mean of transportation in Kenya, probably in all East African countries. It's not more than a van modified and transformed in an small bus. They can stuff till 20 people plus bags, luggage and groceries in it. One must get familiar with being literally in touch with the locals, with the many stops and long times for short tracks. Me and my friend Job Matimbai took them to Kakamega and Kitale recently. The journeys took an eternity, we had to change matatus a few times and on the way back from Kitale we ended up hitchhiking since the matatu got on fire. They are the only option concerning public transportation in Kenya. They are very cheap and, in my opinion, a lot of fun!

Matatus in the center of Kakamega. FOTO: PRIVATE.

View from a matatu. FOTO: PRIVATE.

Everyone one knows that water and electricity are still a problem in this part of the world. Blackouts happen quite often and one must be prepared for such situations, what means to have candles and a torch ready to be used. During my first blackout I kind rediscovered observing the sky and the stars on the Southern Hemisphere, a thing that I loved to do when I was a child. It's almost impossible to do it in Europe since there is always too much light interfering. Beautiful! Even the fireflies surprised me, I've almost forget them. In don't remember the last time I saw so many.

Market of Chwele early in the morning. FOTO: PRIVATE.

I can not mention the life in East Africa without mention the water issue. I arrived in Chwele during the second half of the dry season, which may last until mid or end of April. Those who have water supply at home in this region are privileged. Most of the inhabitants must buy water in the boreholes, they are two or maybe three in Chwele, and transport the containers on bicycles, motorcycles, animals or on their heads. Many children help their families doing transporting water. Myself, I have a container in the house for washing and cleaning and buy extra drink water. From March on until October the rain season eases people's life a bit down here. Then is time to sow and take care of the farms.

The local "water boy". FOTO: PRIVATE.

Life on the countryside in East Africa is not an easy task. Life here is about breathing the dust of the roads, eating what you can grow on the ground, enjoying stars and fireflies and feeling peoples body's temperature. It's friendly and welcoming. Hard and at the same time beautiful. There has been only two weeks since Kenya became my home. Two weeks filled with uncountable new experiences, intensive exchange and emotional growth. Putting the feeling in a metaphor: "It feels like walking bare feet again".

Accident on the road. FOTO: PRIVATE.

Well fellows! My time here just started, I'm sure it is going to be a great one and I'll be sharing it with you.

Cheers everyone,
your Simiyu.  ;)