The beauty of the Kenyan ethnic diversity

I come originally from Brazil, a country where people celebrate their ethnic diversity. We Brazilian are born of a mixture of many races coming from different corners of the planet: the primordial inhabitants of that ground, the indigenous, the Europeans, mainly the Portuguese colonizers, and the Africans, brought to the American continent as slaves. Centuries later, another immigration waves coming from countries like Italy, Germany, Japan, Poland, even from Lebanon and Armenia gave the country the face it has today. It sounds really like a big "soup of races", as we use to call ourselves, but nothing compared to what one can experience in some African countries. Living in Kenya has given me the chance to grow into these diversity and to learn about its people.

Bukusu  lady in the Chwele market. PICTURE: PRIVATE

So, what did I get to learn about the Kenyan people so far?

The population of Kenya is composed by three main groups or folks, the Bantu people, speakers of the Bantu languages and originally from the central western part of the continent, the Nilot, or Nilotic people, mainly inhabitants of Central and East Africa, and the valleys of the Nile river, and the Cushitis, originals from the "horn of Africa", region composed today by countries like Eritrea, Ethiopia and Somalia. This a group of minor significance in number of inhabitants in the country.

A Masaai grandma. PICTURE: PRIVATE

These three folks are divided in a number of smaller ethnic groups or tribes, sub-tribes and smaller groups, the clans, dispersed all over the country. According to recent statistics the population of Kenyan is formed by 42 tribes. Till now I got to know people from a few of them, like the Luhya, Kalenjin, Kikuyu, Kamba, Luo and Masaai.

My friend Nicole Achieng, a Luhya girl with a Luo name. PICTURE: PRIVATE.

In Chwele, Western region of Kenya, where I'm living the predominant tribe is the Luhya. The Luhya belong to the Bantu people and can be subdivided in another 18 sub-tribes, each of them speaking a different dialect or variation of the Luhya language. 

The Bukusu, the people I have the pleasure to live with, is one of these sub-tribes and they speak the language with the same name, kiBukusu. Now it gets more interesting! These sub-tribes are composed by even smaller groups, the clans, which also have specific internal rules and traditions. Omutukhwika, omulako, omukimweyi, omurefu, etc. are examples of clans of the Bukusu tribe. Now consider such a hierarchy in each one of the 42 tribes. That's what I mean with fascinating!

Mrs. Matimbai, my host and friend. From the
Luhya tribe, Bukusu sub-tribe. PICTURE: PRIVATE.

There are a few tribes among those 42 I'm sure you must have heard about, e. g. the Masaai, the Kalenjin and the Kikuyu. The Masaai are those slender tall guys wrapped in red, frequently also blue, "blankets" (in Kiswahili shuka) one can see in movies and advertisements "jumping" in the savannah. They typically wear colorful beaded earrings and necklaces and are known to be a tribe of warriors. These guys belong to the Nilot people.

A Sabaot boy. The Sabaot is a sub-tribe from the Kalenjin. PICTURE: PRIVATE.

The Kalenjin, on the other hand, got a lot of reputation through sports. Some of the best marathon runners in the world are Kenyans, and almost all of them come from this tribe. Like the Masaai, the Kalenjin are also Nilotic people.

Recently I went on a excursion to the Mount Elgon, an extinct volcano on the surroundings of Chwele and up on the mountain I got to know some of the locals, the Sabaots, a sub tribe of the Kalenjin. These guys are used to the life in high and hilly areas and to lower temperatures. This one of the few tribes that used to practice female circumcision.

Ms. Cheptarus Sang, my Kalenjin friend. PICTURE: PRIVATE.

What to say about the Kikuyu tribe? 
This tribe is original from the central part of the country, which includes the capital, Nairobi, and is the largest tribe in population. Approximately 20% of the Kenya population is Kikuyu. These guys are known for being merchants and business people. It's maybe also important to mention that the actual Kenyan president is a Kikuyu.

Yvone Wanjala also a Luhya and Bukusu. PICTURE: PRIVATE.

The complexity resulting of the many tribes, sub-tribes and clans in Kenya is just enormous. As a reflex of that, you can imagine how culturally rich is this country.

All the different traditions, typical meals, the seasonal names and number of  languages. A child growing up in a three languages environment is a very common thing around here. Contrary to what one may think the Kenyans live in peace with each other regardless of all their ethnic particularities.

Rose's fruits stand. Rose is also a Bukusu. PICTURE: PRIVATE.

To learn about  the Kenyan people and get entangled in their traditions has been an amazing and incredibly rewarding experience.

Cheers everyone,

Mácio Simiyu (my Bukusu name :)).

The feeling of being back to Kenya

There has been two weeks since I arrived in Chwele, Kenya. This is the third time I'm visiting the country and the second I come to this village. The current experience is going to different from the previous ones though, then this time I came to live here.

Elisa and Efrahim in Cherangani. FOTO: PRIVATE.

My stay in Chwele is the beginning of very long journey I decided to tackle. Actually it's going to be my home in Africa for quite some time before I move on, what gives the traveling concept a totally different perspective. Here I'll be living with the Luhyas, the second largest tribe in Kenya. In the Western region, more exactly in the surroundings of the city Bungoma, the ethnic group Bukusu, one of the 18 sub-tribes of the Luhyas, are predominant and I'm living among them.

On the way to work in Chwele. FOTO: PRIVATE.

How does it feel to be back in Kenya? What is it like to live here?
So far, I've met the old friends and hosts I got to know during my previous visits to the country. I was glad to see that they were as happy as I was to meet them again. Even the kids still remembered of me and had my name fresh in their minds.

Burial ceremony in Cherangani. FOTO: PRIVATE.

Lisa preparing the firewood to cook Gideri. FOTO: PRIVATE.

Kenyan people are very welcoming and gentle in their manners, they stop to have casual talks on the walkway, they will invite you to come to their places and eat with them and every single time you meet a handshake is a "must". I remember once I just missed to shake hands with someone and I got to hear the following: "My friend, we Kenyans like to feel each other's blood temperature, each other's body temperature. We want to know how warm you are. That's why shake hands is so important!" He made himself pretty much understandable with that analogy and the essence behind his explanation was just impressive.

One of the markets of Bungoma. FOTO: PRIVATE.

And what about the local food?
Not being yet able to make reference to the tribe specific specialties, I generally love the food here and keep trying what is put in from of me. Everything very fresh, cheap and mainly grown in the backyard. Banana, groundnut, maize, potatoes, grains and beans, and different kinds of green leaves are the base of the local kitchen. Concerning meat the Bukusu people eat some beef and chicken, but occasionally, since meat is generally expensive for the population. I particularly like the dark, "ugali wa wimbi", a kind of porridge prepared with millet (Kiswahili wimbi) and cassava. That one with chicken stew is just delicious!

Chapati bread with dark ugali (made from millet and cassava) in chicken stew. FOTO: PRIVATE.

Another aspect of being a foreigner in Kenya is that I have to get used to the word "Mzungu". Mzungu is the Swahili word for "white man" or just "foreigner." Everywhere I walk or cycle past everyone, specially the children, run after me and shout "Mzungu! Mzungu!". Since I look like an European (I'm originally Brazilian) I'm still getting used to be excessively noticed. Another consequence of being a Mzungu is that I get the "Mzungu prizes" when I go to the market. Most of the believe that all Wazungu (plural of Mzungu) are wealthy and for this reason increase the prizes of most products as soon as one appears willing to buy something. Nevertheless, in the souvenir markets one must bargain, since the a Mzungu has good chances to get a good offer in such places.

One of the market streets in Bungoma. FOTO: PRIVATE.

In my opinion, the most important aspect of being a Mzungu where I live is that I get to know people very easily since everyone is very much willing to know me. So, people are really friendly, they want to talk to you, to know where you come from, to tell about their culture and to be helpful somehow. So, it won't take any longer and I'll become one of the locals, as well as, and they will get used to my presence. The fact that I already got my Bukusu name, Simiyu, wich means born in the drought period, is a good sign of it.

Travellers in a matatu. FOTO: PRIVATE.

Things like traveling in "matatus", the electricity blackouts and the scarcity of water are further experiences one will frequently goes through when living on the countryside in Kenya. A matatu is the most used mean of transportation in Kenya, probably in all East African countries. It's not more than a van modified and transformed in an small bus. They can stuff till 20 people plus bags, luggage and groceries in it. One must get familiar with being literally in touch with the locals, with the many stops and long times for short tracks. Me and my friend Job Matimbai took them to Kakamega and Kitale recently. The journeys took an eternity, we had to change matatus a few times and on the way back from Kitale we ended up hitchhiking since the matatu got on fire. They are the only option concerning public transportation in Kenya. They are very cheap and, in my opinion, a lot of fun!

Matatus in the center of Kakamega. FOTO: PRIVATE.

View from a matatu. FOTO: PRIVATE.

Everyone one knows that water and electricity are still a problem in this part of the world. Blackouts happen quite often and one must be prepared for such situations, what means to have candles and a torch ready to be used. During my first blackout I kind rediscovered observing the sky and the stars on the Southern Hemisphere, a thing that I loved to do when I was a child. It's almost impossible to do it in Europe since there is always too much light interfering. Beautiful! Even the fireflies surprised me, I've almost forget them. In don't remember the last time I saw so many.

Market of Chwele early in the morning. FOTO: PRIVATE.

I can not mention the life in East Africa without mention the water issue. I arrived in Chwele during the second half of the dry season, which may last until mid or end of April. Those who have water supply at home in this region are privileged. Most of the inhabitants must buy water in the boreholes, they are two or maybe three in Chwele, and transport the containers on bicycles, motorcycles, animals or on their heads. Many children help their families doing transporting water. Myself, I have a container in the house for washing and cleaning and buy extra drink water. From March on until October the rain season eases people's life a bit down here. Then is time to sow and take care of the farms.

The local "water boy". FOTO: PRIVATE.

Life on the countryside in East Africa is not an easy task. Life here is about breathing the dust of the roads, eating what you can grow on the ground, enjoying stars and fireflies and feeling peoples body's temperature. It's friendly and welcoming. Hard and at the same time beautiful. There has been only two weeks since Kenya became my home. Two weeks filled with uncountable new experiences, intensive exchange and emotional growth. Putting the feeling in a metaphor: "It feels like walking bare feet again".

Accident on the road. FOTO: PRIVATE.

Well fellows! My time here just started, I'm sure it is going to be a great one and I'll be sharing it with you.

Cheers everyone,
your Simiyu.  ;)