The feeling of being back to Kenya

There has been two weeks since I arrived in Chwele, Kenya. This is the third time I'm visiting the country and the second I come to this village. The current experience is going to different from the previous ones though, then this time I came to live here.

Elisa and Efrahim in Cherangani. FOTO: PRIVATE.

My stay in Chwele is the beginning of very long journey I decided to tackle. Actually it's going to be my home in Africa for quite some time before I move on, what gives the traveling concept a totally different perspective. Here I'll be living with the Luhyas, the second largest tribe in Kenya. In the Western region, more exactly in the surroundings of the city Bungoma, the ethnic group Bukusu, one of the 18 sub-tribes of the Luhyas, are predominant and I'm living among them.

On the way to work in Chwele. FOTO: PRIVATE.

How does it feel to be back in Kenya? What is it like to live here?
So far, I've met the old friends and hosts I got to know during my previous visits to the country. I was glad to see that they were as happy as I was to meet them again. Even the kids still remembered of me and had my name fresh in their minds.

Burial ceremony in Cherangani. FOTO: PRIVATE.

Lisa preparing the firewood to cook Gideri. FOTO: PRIVATE.

Kenyan people are very welcoming and gentle in their manners, they stop to have casual talks on the walkway, they will invite you to come to their places and eat with them and every single time you meet a handshake is a "must". I remember once I just missed to shake hands with someone and I got to hear the following: "My friend, we Kenyans like to feel each other's blood temperature, each other's body temperature. We want to know how warm you are. That's why shake hands is so important!" He made himself pretty much understandable with that analogy and the essence behind his explanation was just impressive.

One of the markets of Bungoma. FOTO: PRIVATE.

And what about the local food?
Not being yet able to make reference to the tribe specific specialties, I generally love the food here and keep trying what is put in from of me. Everything very fresh, cheap and mainly grown in the backyard. Banana, groundnut, maize, potatoes, grains and beans, and different kinds of green leaves are the base of the local kitchen. Concerning meat the Bukusu people eat some beef and chicken, but occasionally, since meat is generally expensive for the population. I particularly like the dark, "ugali wa wimbi", a kind of porridge prepared with millet (Kiswahili wimbi) and cassava. That one with chicken stew is just delicious!

Chapati bread with dark ugali (made from millet and cassava) in chicken stew. FOTO: PRIVATE.

Another aspect of being a foreigner in Kenya is that I have to get used to the word "Mzungu". Mzungu is the Swahili word for "white man" or just "foreigner." Everywhere I walk or cycle past everyone, specially the children, run after me and shout "Mzungu! Mzungu!". Since I look like an European (I'm originally Brazilian) I'm still getting used to be excessively noticed. Another consequence of being a Mzungu is that I get the "Mzungu prizes" when I go to the market. Most of the believe that all Wazungu (plural of Mzungu) are wealthy and for this reason increase the prizes of most products as soon as one appears willing to buy something. Nevertheless, in the souvenir markets one must bargain, since the a Mzungu has good chances to get a good offer in such places.

One of the market streets in Bungoma. FOTO: PRIVATE.

In my opinion, the most important aspect of being a Mzungu where I live is that I get to know people very easily since everyone is very much willing to know me. So, people are really friendly, they want to talk to you, to know where you come from, to tell about their culture and to be helpful somehow. So, it won't take any longer and I'll become one of the locals, as well as, and they will get used to my presence. The fact that I already got my Bukusu name, Simiyu, wich means born in the drought period, is a good sign of it.

Travellers in a matatu. FOTO: PRIVATE.

Things like traveling in "matatus", the electricity blackouts and the scarcity of water are further experiences one will frequently goes through when living on the countryside in Kenya. A matatu is the most used mean of transportation in Kenya, probably in all East African countries. It's not more than a van modified and transformed in an small bus. They can stuff till 20 people plus bags, luggage and groceries in it. One must get familiar with being literally in touch with the locals, with the many stops and long times for short tracks. Me and my friend Job Matimbai took them to Kakamega and Kitale recently. The journeys took an eternity, we had to change matatus a few times and on the way back from Kitale we ended up hitchhiking since the matatu got on fire. They are the only option concerning public transportation in Kenya. They are very cheap and, in my opinion, a lot of fun!

Matatus in the center of Kakamega. FOTO: PRIVATE.

View from a matatu. FOTO: PRIVATE.

Everyone one knows that water and electricity are still a problem in this part of the world. Blackouts happen quite often and one must be prepared for such situations, what means to have candles and a torch ready to be used. During my first blackout I kind rediscovered observing the sky and the stars on the Southern Hemisphere, a thing that I loved to do when I was a child. It's almost impossible to do it in Europe since there is always too much light interfering. Beautiful! Even the fireflies surprised me, I've almost forget them. In don't remember the last time I saw so many.

Market of Chwele early in the morning. FOTO: PRIVATE.

I can not mention the life in East Africa without mention the water issue. I arrived in Chwele during the second half of the dry season, which may last until mid or end of April. Those who have water supply at home in this region are privileged. Most of the inhabitants must buy water in the boreholes, they are two or maybe three in Chwele, and transport the containers on bicycles, motorcycles, animals or on their heads. Many children help their families doing transporting water. Myself, I have a container in the house for washing and cleaning and buy extra drink water. From March on until October the rain season eases people's life a bit down here. Then is time to sow and take care of the farms.

The local "water boy". FOTO: PRIVATE.

Life on the countryside in East Africa is not an easy task. Life here is about breathing the dust of the roads, eating what you can grow on the ground, enjoying stars and fireflies and feeling peoples body's temperature. It's friendly and welcoming. Hard and at the same time beautiful. There has been only two weeks since Kenya became my home. Two weeks filled with uncountable new experiences, intensive exchange and emotional growth. Putting the feeling in a metaphor: "It feels like walking bare feet again".

Accident on the road. FOTO: PRIVATE.

Well fellows! My time here just started, I'm sure it is going to be a great one and I'll be sharing it with you.

Cheers everyone,
your Simiyu.  ;)

Heading to the west, heading to my new home!

I stayed one day in the sorroundings of Nairobi, Rongai, with Harrison and his family and get some issues sorted out for the project as well as prepare to the journey next day.

Harrison is a Kenyan friend and supporter  of the Open Hearts. I met him for the very first time when I came to Kenya three years ago.

Today at 6 am I took the coach from the centre of Nairobi and headed Bungoma in the Western Region of Kenya. There I was picked up and brought me to my new home, Chwele.

The journey till Bungoma with the EasyCoach will take approximately 8 hours and costed 1.350,00 ksh ( €).

Some pics along the road.

LOVE to everyone!

Cheers!

Coffee comes from Kaffa (Ethiopia)

The stimulant effects of coffe were first explored in the Ethiopian ancient region of Kaffa and this is the reason why coffee is called "coffee." It's originally a Ethiopian word.

Still today the coffe ritual is an Ethiopian tradition. The coffee ladies (this is my description for them) can be seen sitting on this small table where the roast the coffee beans, boil and filter the coffee for their clients. Oh! And popcorn is also served as snack (see picture).

I found it really interesting but, unfortunately, I didn't have the time to taste such a "ritual coffee." I'm sure it's going to happen very soon.

Keep exploring!

Cheers!

In transit in Addis Ababa

Having almost a full day in Addis Ababa while in transit on the way to Kenya was enough to have a look in the city and check some of its sightseeing spots.

The best thing was that Ethiopian Airlines sent me to a hotel where I could have some food, a shower and a nap before getting into town. Great service!

I basically negotiated the price for a city tournwith a taxi driver/city guide organized by the hotel. He drove me around and took me to the Trinity Church, Ethiopian National Museum and Ethnological Museum.

Religion plays a very important role on the Ethiophians life's. Daniel, my guide, said that in Addis Ababa there must be at least one church at every 3 km.

I learned today that the majority of the Ethiopian population are Orthodoxes, Muslims and Catholics, and the impression I got was that they manage to live peacefully in this religious diversity.

The ancient Ethiopian Emperors have been strongly connected to the church as well. The "Lion of Judah," a symbol of this relationship between power and religion, can be seen everywhere as an ornament, in the palaces, churches, museums and in the ancient Ethiopian flags.

The Ethiopian ethnical diversity reminded me of what I've learned about the tribes in Kenya: many groups, different traditions, languages and beliefs. Many aspects of the different cultures can be seen in both, the Ethiopian National Museum and the Ethnological Museum.

Hint: I strongly recommend to hire an guide in all the museums. They are many, well informed, enthusiastic and really doing a good work. Important: they work for tips.

Daniel even explained me the story behind the name of the capital, Addis Ababa: while walking on the palaces garden the Empress Taytu Betul, wife of the Emperor Menelik II, found a flower she's never seen before, and baptized the city as Addis Ababa, meaning "new flower."

I was pretty surprised as a got to know the the Ethiopian have been under Italian occupation during two short periods and managed to get rid of them both times.

The greatest historical hero for the Ethiopian population has been the Emperor Haile Selassie, which brought the country through a significantly cultural revolution and reigned for more than 40 years. He died in 1974.

Even though the time was pretty short I'm glad I managed to see something of the city, talk to some locals and learn a bit about the Ethiopian people.

I may come back to Ethiopia later to see the stone churches of Lalibela up north. Yep! 

Cheers everyone!

Farewell Germany, Hello Kenya!

The time has come!

Sitting in the plane and leaving Europe after 13 years! For good!

Thank you all family and friends for the great time, for the amazing adventures an, above all, for the LOVE!

See you along the way, cause "the worlds is small and we are free!"

Cheers!

Inferring the Norwegian

All people who know me know that I'm interested in languages generally, as well as, in learning them. So whenever I'm traveling I try to pick up something of the local language, to associate it with those I already can speak to a certain extent or, at least, to get something of the structure of the language.

"HOCHSPANNUNG LEBENSGEFAHR" "HIGH VOLTAGE LIFE DANGER"

In Norway wasn't different. I made my efforts to understand a bit of the Norwegian (in Norwegian Norsk).

My first attempts we're directed to the listening since I first heard the people talking, still in the German airport, before being able to read in some sign, advertisement. Result: I totally failed! I couldn't understand a single word.

"DU STEHST/BIST HIER" "YOU ARE HERE"

Nevertheless, since I knew that Norwegian is has the same background as German I should be able to understand something from the written language. Baaaam! As soon as I landed in Trondheim I began inferring based on my German skills and it worked out pretty well.

"WARME SCHOKOLADE" "HOT CHOCOLATE"

In the shops, menus, advertisement, newspapers, food packages, etc. I could find a lot of similarities between words in Norwegian and German and in the situations when the similarity wasn't there, it was possible to infer the meaning of an certain word by the context.

"WIR WÜNSCHEN ALLE EIN GUTES NEUES JAHR" "WE WISH EVERYNOE A HAPPY NEW YEAR"

So, at the end I wasn't that disappointed for not being able to understand the spoken language. Apparently, there is the same kind of relation between Norwegian and German that we have in South America between Brazilian Portuguese and Spanish. We, Brazilian, can understand the Spanish speaking neighbors but it doesn't work the other way round.

"FUSSGÄNGERFELD" "PEDESTRIAN AREA"

The reason for that is that we have all the sounds on which the Spanish is built and many others they are not familiar with. Plus point for us! :)

"SCHWARZER KAFFEE" "BLACK COFFE"

Anyway, to speak a proper Norwegian I still had to put a lot of effort in it. since I was there only for holiday, it not going to happen any soon. For nor I have another linguistic priorities. Swahili here I come!

Cheers everyone and "tuse takk!"

Photographing the other side of Trondheim

Below you guys will find a little collection of random photographed I took while roaming around in Trondheim, Norway. They show some graffits, alternative advertisement and funny stuff.

The Norwegians are at a first glimpse very relaxed people and maybe a bit distant. But after the first first greeting word being pronounced they really friendly and helpful.

Imagine a in Germany living expat Brazilian traveling to Norway. This is how I felt. To be that far north on the globe gave the kinda "Fuck I made it this far! Baaam!" feeling.

The NO THANKS! (Nei takk!) picture.

Putting that kind of stickers at their bells people signalize they are not interested in having their post boxes filled up with advertisement, catalogs, flyers, etc.

I think this poster was related to the "Movember" mustache campaigns.

Windy, windy Trondheim.

Parking area ... for bicycles.

I baptized the next one "the suspicious grandma."

The next one is for the Star Wars fans.

"We wish you everybody a good new year."

Cheers lovely peeps!

What about Trondheim itself?

After roaming around Trondheim during the first three days in the city we start exploring it and trying to figure out what to do for the New Year's Eve.

About the city: Trondheim is the third most populated city and the fourth 

metropolitan area in Norway. It is situated at the Trondheimførd and crossed by the river Nidelva.

The most remarkable fact about Trondheim for a visitor is the essentially wood based architecture.

The typical old storehouses by the Nidelva river and many bridges give the town kinda "wooden Firenze" feeling.

Actually this is a general fact about Norway, or maybe even about all northern countries, since inexperienced the same in Lithuania.

The Old Town Bridge (Norwegian Gamle Bibro) is another wooden ornament of Trondheim. It was built Nidelva river strategically, connecting the Old Town and the Kristianten Festning.

Uphill and also very central situated is the Kristiansten Festning (Kristiansten fortress) built in the end of 17th century.

Once standing on fortress walls we got a nice view from the city including harbor and the Trondheimførd.

The predominately gothic Nidarosdomen (Nidaros cathedral) in Trondheim is one of the main spots for visitors to check.

In a walk through the city and along the Nidelva there are plenty of things to do and see in Trondheim, e. g.:

- a stop at the NTNU, Norwegian Universty of Science and Technology (Norwegian Norges teknisk-naturvitenskapelige universitet);

- have some food in Egon Restaurant on the top of the Tyholt tower (Norwegian Tyholttårnet) and enjoy a great view of the city;

-have a look at monk's islet (Norwegian Munkholmen), the fortress in the middle of the Trodheimfjørd. It can be seen from the harbor;

- see the crown jewelry in the Archbishop's Palace Museum;

-and being there for New Years Eve go party in the pub Three Lions. Fun guaranteed!

Well! Discover yourserlf a bit more on your own and don't forget to leave the hint.

Trondheim and surroundings were a travel worthy, even though the sun come out only for four hours.

Cheers peeps!