Monday 19 May 2014

On the Mount Elgon every now and then


Every now and then I jump on the carrier of a "bodaboda" (Kiswahili for motorbike taxi) and take a ride  through muddy roads to enjoy the most beautiful piece of nature in the neighborhood, the Mount Elgon.

    This is where the adventure starts: with the Mount Elgon in front of us.
    PICTURE: PRIVATE.

In less than half an hour motorbike ride from my home, in Chwele, one can reach the first villages up on the mountain at approx. 2500 m altitude. The challenging slopes and the muddy roads, specially during the rain season, can only be mastered without further problems by the bodabodas. They, the slopes and the mud, provide a lot of adrenaline for a lot of fun on the way up.
A day ride on the bodaboda, including the guidance services of the driver, will cost 1000kes (Kenyan Shillings) = 8,33€.

   Who sits on the carrier of a bodaboda is in advantage. PICTURE:PRIVATE.

Some facts about the Mount Elgon:
It is an extinct volcano located half in Ugandan half in Kenyan territory and its highest point reaches approximately 4300 m. It is the oldest and largest solitary volcano in East Africa, covering a area of around 3.500 km² (Wiki.).

For those, who love being in contact with nature, hiking, climbing and camping, this is perfect place. A real nature sanctuary in the middle of an awesome scenery and adorned with unexplored caves, impressive waterfalls and a vegetation of an unique beauty.


During my last visit to the mountain, I had the pleasure to introduce it to my Kenyan friends Derrick and Patience. On the back of two bodabodas we reached the village Kopsiro, where I first took them to a walk along the cliffs, having an breathtaking view of the flatlands beyond the Ugandan border.


The very same way leaded us through a piece of forest on the way to the highest waterfall I got to know up there. The water drops approximately 70m down the cliff. An awesome view of an hidden wonder!!!

    Derrick and the waterfall. PICTURE: PRIVATE.

Another 10 minutes walk further along the cliff and we entered one of the many caves scattered on the surroundings of Kopsiro. With an 5m high and 10m wide entrance and two big galleries, it's one the largests in the area.
Hints: don't forget carrying a torch and be emotionally prepared for some bats flying around you. 

    Inside a cave. PRIVATE: PICTURE.

From Kopsiro we continued our excursion. We left the edges of the mountain and headed to its central areas, towards the Ugandan border, aiming the reminiscent local forest, a mixture of rain forest and and bamboo vegetation.

    The "mixed" forest on the Mount Elgon. PICTURE: PRIVATE.

We left our motorbikes at the edge of the forest and went for hiking through the dense green vegetation. According to the locals we would find further waterfalls and caves along that route.


Before reaching our destination we first met a few of the locals_ that area of the mountain is inhabited mainly by the Saboat sub-tribe_  with their oxen on the way. They use to collect bamboo trees in those areas to use in the construction of their houses. A very peculiar encounter indeed! Considering that I was told the Saboat people would be hostile people. Prejudice by side, my Kenyan friends facilitated the communication and at the end those guys seemed very friendly and, like most of the Kenyans, curious about the "mzungu" (Kiswahili for European, or generally foreigner) roaming around in that forest.

    Sabaot guys, their oxen and the bamboo. PICTURE: PRIVATE.

After almost one hour hiking we reached the promised "oasis". And what a one!!
We left the forest behind us as we entered this cleared area. It was cut by an short creek, and at both side a number of flowers of an awesome beauty decorated it.

    Isn't that a paradise? PICTURE: PRIVATE.

We took a break to refresh before moving ahead. Such a nice and relaxing place and this on the slope of an extinct volcano. Just great!!

    Break at the creek: me. PICTURE: PRIVATE.

    Break at the creek: Derrick, Patience and the "bodaboda dereva"
   (Kiswahili motorcycle driver). PICTURE: PRIVATE.

What I didn't realize was that the creek disappeared a few meters after the place where we decided to stop and fell down along an stony wall of approx. 40m height.
Following our friends we found a way down along the wall ann after reaching down had that just paradisiacal view. Behind the waterfall the entrance of an huge cave, exactly like those hiding treasures in the pirates movies. Proper gorgeous!

    A view of paradise in Western Kenya. PICTURE: PRIVATE.

No doubt we had our exploration moment motivated by the exciting atmosphere of the place. We entered the cave and walked into its two main chambers till where darkness allowed us, definitely, far of reaching its end.
In his excitement our guide joked: "if you keep walking ahead you may get ou in Uganda." :)

    The explorers at the waterfall. PICTURE: PRIVATE.

The expression natural sanctuary describes this place perfectly! Although the footprints of the locals can be seen in many areas of the forest, it still seems to be in perfect balance. Rumor has it, that the Bungoma county, in the Western region of Kenya, has plans to transform the whole area in an National Park soon.

A motorcycle ride to a forest on an extinct volcano to explore caves and jump into some waterfalls. If it's not worth adventuring?!

Glad to share with you peeps!

Cheers,
Mácio Simyiu Mzungu :D


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Friday 16 May 2014

That's for free

"Right now my life consists of a constant celebration of freedom."- M.C.
    Hiking on the Mount Elgon, Kenya. PICTURE: PRIVATE.


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Saturday 10 May 2014

Of how I crossed Tanzania

I managed to got from Chwele, in Kenya, to Nakonde, in Zambia, after literally crossing Tanzania within a week. During those exactly 7 day I drove more the 4.000 km using more than 17 different vehicles, including buses, matatus, tuk-tuk and bodaboda (Kiswahili for motorbike taxi).
    Boiled eggs seller in the bus station of Iringa, Tanzania. PICTURE:PRIVATE.
That was a trip full of surprises, a huge lesson about how to travel in East Africa and, obviously, an opportunity to get to know more about the the differences and relations between the different countries and the opinion of their citizens about each other.
             
                   The long way across Tanzania. PICTURE: PRIVATE.

               Tuk-tuk station near Mwanza, Tanzania. PICTURE:PRIVATE.
          Green nyanya (Kiswahili for tomatoes) in Mwanza. PICTURE:PRIVATE.
          Leaving Mwanza, in Tanzania early in the morning. PICTURE:PRIVATE.
In order to get my tourist visa renewed I head to leave and reenter the East Arfican region, which is composed by Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda, Rwanda and Burundi. Since the borders to Somalia and DRC Congo are not recommend to cross, for obvious reasons, and I need an visa issued in home country to be able to enter Ethiopia, there wasn't any other choice but to go Zambia all through Tanzania.
And you know what?! I just loved the idea!!
            Another bus station, Singida, Tanzania. PICTURE:PRIVATE.
From Chwele I headed down south with matatus, drove past Kisumu at the Victoria lake and crossed the border to Tanzania at Sirari. Heading further south on the way to Mwanza, I drove past the Seregenti National Park, crossing the flat land of the Masaai and entering a stony landscape before reaching my destination. Mwanza is one of the largest cities in Tanzania and economically very significant for being at the Victoria Lake.
          Another bus station, Singida, Tanzania. PICTURE:PRIVATE.
After spending a day in Mwanza I drove to Iringa, passing by Shynianga, Singida and Dodoma in the central region of the country and was surprised by the level of development of a few cities when compared to other areas in Kenya and Uganda.
          View from Mwanza, Tanzania. PICTURE:PRIVATE.
That was almost a whole day on the road. I confess that at a certain point my arse started hurting, specially when the bus drive wasn't much careful about the bumps, but I had the beauty outside the window to compensate the pain.
       On of the many villages along the road in Tanzania. PICTURE:PRIVATE.
I drove past wonderful scenarios, sometimes hilly stony areas sometimes endless green flatlands. Uncountable small sunflower plantations scatered all over and the sunflower oil sellers in their wooden stand along the roads. Apparently the main source of income in the central and southern areas. I could also realize tree trunks pieces hanging on other trees along the road what was explained to me later as being the local way of keeping bees (yes! I tasted the Tanzania honey).
      An impression of the stony landscape of part of Tanzania. PICTURE:PRIVATE.
                    Life along the road. PICTURE:PRIVATE.
          The typical sellers at the bus stops. PICTURE:PRIVATE.
was even more amazed by the first sight of the majestic baobab trees, impressive!! I could stop photographing them emerging out of the ground, here and there, in the middle of the savannah. I could observe dwellings build around them, their shade being used as parking areas for bodaboda drivers or as playground by children.
           Baobab...
          ...baobab,...
          ...and more baobabs. PICTURES:PRIVATE.
After spending a night in Iringa, where I had that delicious "uji" (Kiswahili for millet porridge) at 6am before entering hitting the road, I drove past Mbeya and crossed the border to Zambia between Tunduma (Tanzanian side) and Nakonde (Zambian side).
                Snacks seller. PICTURE:PRIVATE.
In Nakonde an unfortunate happening spoiled my humor for a few hours, but just for a few hour. My computer, camera and some money were stolen from the my lodge while I was having breakfast, meaning I had to spend all the in the police station for them to investigate the case. The way it is, we move past bad things and leave them where they belong, in the past!! Now I had to prepare to head back home along all the way through Tanzania.
 Chai (delicious lemon grass and ginger tea) na keki (Kiswahili for cake). PICTURE:PRIVATE.
The next day I crossed back the border, got my renewed visa to re-enter East Africa, and later on Kenya, prepared to enjoy the other side of the road and to have those feeling, which are worthy living for. :)
          Small market at one of many bus stops. PICTURE:PRIVATE.
Cheers everyone and lot of Love,
Mácio Simyiu.

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Thursday 8 May 2014

I got "uji"

Finished the day yesterday with a great surprise!
I was taken, literally, to a friends house and got those log promised, delicious cups of "uji" (kiswahili for millet porridge) accompanied by some "mandazi", the local homemade bread.

You must try it. Made my day! :)
Cheers peeps!

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